Get Your Frico On: Potato & Onion Frico from Friuli!
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When I lived in Friuli, Italy, and after a long day of exploring, one of my friends and I found ourselves at a restaurant that specialized in spiedini or skewered meats. Why would a vegetarian such as myself even venture into such a place? Because the menu outside the restaurant had frico on offer. And you can't go wrong with frico!
Frico is made from potatoes, onions, and a cow’s milk cheese called montasio. Depending on its age (30 days, 90 days or up to 18 months), montasio can taste like three different kinds of cheeses. Frico is usually made from the adolescent one. No matter the age, montasio is delicious...and I've been chasing it ever since I returned to the U.S. in 2002 but it's eluded me. Until now: I discovered Montasio Friuliano at Olio&Olive, an Italian food company in Texas. Now, I can have one of my favorite Italian dishes any time!
Frico is usually cooked in a small nonstick skillet (8 inches) but I use a larger 10-inch skillet instead. This recipe works for either size: the smaller skillet results in a thicker frico with a creamier interior while the frico made in a larger skillet is thinner with more crunch.
Speaking of crunch, it's achieved by cooking the frico low and slow on each side as the fat from the cheese renders out of it.
Serves 4.
8 oz package Montasio Friulano cheese
1 pound yellow potatoes (like Yukon Gold), peeled
1 TBS plus 1 tsp olive oil
1 medium-sized onion (about 1 cup), peeled and thinly sliced
1/4 - 1/2 cup water
Salt & pepper to taste
2 TBS chopped fresh parsley as garnish (optional)
Cut the rind off the cheese and discard. Cut the cheese into 1/2" cubes and set aside.
Cut the potatoes in half lengthwise and cut each half into 1/2" thick slices. Set aside.
Heat a large pot on medium. Add 1 TBS oil, the onions, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Cook the onions for 5 minutes or until softened and translucent but not browned.
Add the potatoes and a pinch of salt and pepper. Stir well. Add a 1/4 cup of water (and more if necessary) just until the vegetables are partially covered. Place a lid on the pot, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 10 - 15 minutes. Using the sharp point of a knife, prick a few potatoes; if the knife slides in easily while the potatoes hold their shape, they’re ready. If not, then cook for a few more minutes.
If the water has evaporated during cooking, add a splash or two more. And then add a few pieces of the cheese to the potatoes at a time, stirring them gently with a rubber spatula until melted.
Once the cheese is all incorporated, add the remaining 1 tsp oil to a nonstick skillet. Heat the skillet on medium-low. Add the potatoes and cheese mixture and spread it out evenly and carefully with a rubber spatula; if you dip the spatula into water before spreading out the cheese mixture, it will help prevent the cheese and starch from sticking to it.
Cook for 15 - 18 minutes, carefully removing the fat as it renders with a spoon. If the frico seems to be browning too quickly, turn the heat down to low.
Once the frico is golden brown and crispy on the bottom and most of the fat has rendered, place a large plate over the skillet. Holding the plate, carefully flip the skillet upside down and allow the frico to fall onto the plate. Slide the frico, cooked side up, back into the skillet. Don’t flip the frico in the air to turn it; you and your stove can be spattered with hot oil! Cook for 10 - 15 minutes or until the bottom of the frico is golden brown.
Slide the frico onto a cutting board, cool for 3 – 5 minutes, cut into wedges, sprinkle with fresh parsley if using, and serve.
Helpful Hints
1) Frico is often served with polenta and speck (lightly smoked pork or rarely, horse) but if you can't find speck, try bacon or Italian sausages instead.
2) Because frico is so rich, I like to top it with a simple salad of mixed greens, tomatoes, fresh onions, and lemon vinaigrette. The acid in the lemon cuts the richness of the cheese.
3) A note on potatoes: I prefer yellow potatoes. They are not as floury as Russets nor as waxy as redskins. They soften but also hold their shape. If you prefer Russets, use them instead; however, you may need to reduce the cooking time otherwise the potatoes could break apart and become a bit mashed. I've never used waxy potatoes in this dish but give them a try if they're your favorite; you may have to add a minute or two to the cooking time.
You can cut the potatoes into matchsticks instead of slices or shred them. And if you want to use prepackaged shredded potatoes, go for it! There's absolutely nothing wrong with taking a bit of help from the store!
4) A note on the cheese: You can grate the cheese but resist the temptation to just dump it in. Adding a little at a time and stirring it in pays off in creaminess.
5) A note on onions: I prefer red or yellow onions but white onions are fine, too. If you like a less strong onion flavor, use Vidalia or other sweet onions or even shallots.
6) Cover leftover frico and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat it in a nonstick skillet: add a splash of water, cover with a lid, and cook on medium-low for 2 - 3 minutes or just until the frico becomes pliable and hot. It won't have the original crunch but it will still taste good. You can also cover the frico with a damp paper towel and microwave it for 1 - 2 minutes.
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